Kumeu River is a family winery in Kumeu, West Auckland. It began in 1944, when Mick and Katé Brajkovich, who had emigrated from Croatia, bought a property there with a small vineyard. Their son Maté later ran it as San Marino Vineyards, and it was renamed Kumeu River Wines in 1986. Maté's son Michael became New Zealand's first Master of Wine in 1989 and has made the wines for decades.
The model is Burgundy. The family farms around 30 hectares of its own vineyards and buys fruit from roughly 10 more hectares from local growers. The vines are not irrigated, and the grapes are hand-harvested and whole-bunch pressed. Michael has fermented with wild yeast since 1986, and the wines ferment in French oak barrels.
The Estate Chardonnay is the winery's blend from vineyard sites around Kumeu, kept in French oak for about eleven months. It shows lemon and white peach, a silky texture and a citrus finish, light, elegant and flinty rather than big and buttery. It suits grilled fish, risotto, roast chicken and pasta with a cream sauce.