Before the Rose family made wine, they grew lucerne. Phil and Chris Rose farmed beside the Wairau River in Marlborough, growing lucerne for export to Japan, until the 1970s oil shock made harvesting and drying it uneconomic. They planted grapes instead, sold fruit to other winemakers for several years, and launched their own Wairau River label in 1991.
Rosé has changed here too. Winemaker Nick Entwistle says Marlborough rosé used to be an afterthought made from leftover Pinot Noir. Demand changed that, and Marlborough producers now develop vineyard blocks specifically for it and handle the fruit more gently in the winery. This wine is made from Pinot Noir, and it is dry, light bodied and unoaked, at around 12.5 per cent alcohol.
It is pale pink, with lifted florals, strawberry, red berry and melon, and a juicy, fruit-driven palate that finishes with lively acidity. Nick puts the crisp, fresh flavour down to the mineral character of the Wairau Plains. He suggests lighter dishes, such as sushi, sashimi, snapper, blue cod or a grilled chicken salad.