Three Barrels VSOP

Although the house sits in Cognac, this is a French grape brandy that does not carry the cognac appellation. The VSOP is blended from eaux-de-vie selected from French wine regions and has a rounded, easy style. The name and the label's stack of three barrels refer to a nineteenth century Canadian story, in which three barrels was reputedly the most a team of huskies could pull on a sledge.

In the glass look for toasted almond and marzipan, raisins, vanilla and caramel, then walnut, candied fruit and a little crystallised ginger, with a mild pepper on the finish.

Serve it neat or over ice, or use it where a brandy is called for in an Old Fashioned, a Manhattan or a Sazerac. It is also good in a long drink with ginger ale and a squeeze of lemon. The 1 litre bottle suits a home bar.